剪裁结构工程手册

版型部位组合兼容与互斥规则指南

并非所有胸衣都能搭配任意领型或袖型。在《Dressmaker》中，服装裁剪遵循底层物理层级结构。掌握哪些部件可以无缝拼合，哪些部件存在物理排斥冲突。

成衣四大核心解构部位

1. Bodice (底盘基准)

成衣的核心骨架。决定成衣是否允许安装袖片，界定腰线缝位置（自然腰、高腰帝国式、低腰），并锚定领口几何弧度。

2. Sleeves (袖部)

连接于袖窿处。当 usesSleeves = false 时自动禁用（如抹胸式紧身胸衣、露背挂脖衫）。

3. Collar (领型)

颈部的视觉框架。需要契合咽喉线条。高领维多利亚上身会排斥平铺彼得潘领或宽水手领。

4. Skirt (裙摆)

固定在胸衣下摆接缝处。需要匹配腰围周长。大圆裙赋予如流水般的丰盈体量；铅笔裙要求硬挺的面料支撑。

胸衣版型	袖型状态	互斥冲突领型	结构成因
Strapless Sweetheart Bustier	Forbidden (No Sleeves)	Peter Pan, High Victorian Standing Collar	Lacks shoulder seam anchor point; boning ends at upper chest.
High-Neck Victorian Button Bodice	Permitted (All Sleeves)	Plunging Lapel, Deep V-Neck Notch	Front placket buttons close up to the chin; cannot accommodate deep neckline dips.
Asymmetric One-Shoulder Bodice	Single Sleeve Only	Symmetrical Sailor Collar, Double Ruffle	One shoulder is exposed; bilateral collars and symmetric sleeve pairs are physically impossible.
Empire Waist Folk Bodice	Permitted	Long Drop-Waist Peplums	Waist seam rests directly beneath the bust line (ribcage level), clipping long dropped torsos.

1. Gothic Ballroom Gala

Bodice: Sweetheart Boned Corset

Sleeves: Flowing Double Bell Sleeves

Collar: Victorian Standing Pleated Ruffle

Skirt: Floor-Length Mermaid Train

Fabric: Heavy Obsidian Velvet

2. Scholarly Archivist

Bodice: High-Neck Victorian Button Bodice

Sleeves: 3/4 Gathered Bishop Sleeves

Collar: Modest Rounded Peter Pan Collar

Skirt: A-Line Box Pleat Midi with Pockets

Fabric: Oxford Slub Linen

3. Avant-Garde Vernissage

Bodice: Asymmetrical Sculpted One-Shoulder

Sleeves: Single Oversized Sculpted Lantern

Collar: Origami Geometric Stand Collar

Skirt: High-Low Architectural Tulip Skirt

Fabric: Silk Duchesse Satin